Bustling Tuxedos

LAS VEGAS, Nevada - Il Mulino is a quintessential Italian restaurant that preserves wholesome Italian cuisine, service and hospitality.  A rustic display of fresh vegetables and traditional Italian ingredients in the reception area is a stark comparison to the dimly lit, white table-clothed formal dining room.  The Maitre D’ seems to remember every returning guest and gives genuine attention to each table throughout the evening.  As soon as guests are seated, tuxedoed waiters conspicuously arrive from all angles bringing complimentary appetizers like fried zucchini, muscles, bread and large chunks of parmesan cheese chiseled directly from the round.  All pastas, sausages and the Lemoncello that is served from large ice vats at the end of the meal are homemade.  Fresh fish is flown in daily. Everything tastes like it came from an Italian grandmother’s kitchen. The extensive wine list can be intimidating but the sommelier or Maitre D’ are helpful with making a selection.  Standard entrees on the menu are reasonable for a fine dining restaurant (US$25-$50); however the recited list of specials often includes an $80 pasta with truffle oil. Side dishes are extra (US$8-$12). Dining on the exclusive balcony offers an unobstructed view of the Las Vegas strip and skyline.

ITALIAN. In Ceasars Palace, Forum Shops, 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. S. #T30. (702) 492-6000. Reservations required.  Business Casual. Main courses $25-$50. Open daily noon-2:15pm, 5:00pm-10:30pm. Closed at lunch on Sundays.

Terra Cotta Warriors Stand on Guard

XI’AN, China – The drive from Xi’an into YiYang is a reflection of how life in this farming community has changed after the discovery of the Terra Cotta Warriors. It’s difficult to imagine the kiwi, mango, dragon fruit and statue vendors that line the roads leading to the Terra Cotta Warriors Museum weren’t here 35 years ago.  Today, these entrepreneurial farmers supplement their farming income with sales to tourists.  They sell everything from giant fruits and vegetables harvested from their own farms to miniature replicas of artifacts found at the museum.

Life had definitely changed for one farmer – Mr. Yang Zifa.  Only 35 years ago, he was one of a group of nine farmers who were digging a well in the middle of their field in the sleepy village of YiYang just outside of Xi’an. At about 15 metres into the dig, Mr. Yang found some pieces of pottery and ancient bronze weapon heads. He dug some more and uncovered a head made of pottery. Thinking that it may be worth something, he hammered off the head to sell in the local village.  Little did he know, the well that he was digging was the opening to an important period of China’s history that had changed China forever, and now Mr. Yang’s life.

Mr. Yang had discovered one of 8,000 life-size terracotta warriors that once stood guarding Qin ShiHuang, China’s First Emperor’s tomb over 2200 years ago.

The Chinese government compensated the farmers and took ownership of the farming village now home to the Terra Cotta Warrior Museum.

Archeologists flocked to the site to excavate 22,000 square meters of the tomb housing foot soldiers, archers and charioteers.  The sites were divided into three rooms, Pit 1, 2 and 3.

The view into Pit 1 is spectacular: it’s literally an underground army of over 1000 terracotta soldiers. Each statue is lined up in the exact formation of a military regime ready for battle. Each soldier has unique facial features, hair and creases in his clothing; no two are alike. The scope and scale of the site is truly astounding. Pit 2 is just as impressive with another 1400 terracotta warriors. Pit 3 houses the army command centre with 64 fully armoured guards. 

After hiking The Great Wall just outside of Beijing and then biking through Xi’an on top of the old city wall, I didn’t think my experience in China could get any better.  But peering over the edge of the tomb, I was struck by magnificence. I felt fulfilled by my first experience to China. The life-like statues in real battalion formation transported me to what the life and times of Qin Shihuang must have been like over 2200 years ago.

Qin became the first emperor of China at the early age of 13 when his father passed away. However he did not rule the state until 221BC when he turned 22. A merchant named Lu Buwei (to which his mother was originally a concubine) acted as Prime Minister and regent until Qin was old enough. 

In his first year as an active emperor, Qin became the only ruler to successfully unite China’s seven warring states. In one year, he unified the Qin Empire by battling and conquering the states of Qi, Chu, Yan, Han, Zhao and Wei. This unification was an important part of China’s evolution and made up the labour force that Qin required to run his empire and build his tomb.

Qin began construction as soon as he became emperor. He wanted to take everything with him into the afterlife. Qin buried everything he possessed as a mortal.  The terracotta warriors and chariots guarding his tomb found in Pits 1, 2 and 3 are only a small fraction of an underground world belonging to Qin. Archeologists believe that an entire capital exists complete with flowing mercury rivers.  In 2005, further evidence of this underground majesty was uncovered in another section of Qin's tomb.  A life-size model of a wetland, complete with 40 bronze birds, cranes, swans and geese were found.

Either Qin was extremely paranoid of being attacked even in the afterlife or he had an overly inflated ego because he diverted as many resources as possible to building his mausoleum. At one point, as many as one-third of China’s population or approximately 200,000 people were employed in this construction project which lasted 38 years. Perhaps it was this self-perception of grandeur and boldness that led him to successfully unite the Qin Empire; otherwise China may have remained as fragmented states.  By the time of his death in 206BC at age 50, his tomb was still under construction.

City Beneath a City

MEXICO CITY, Mexico - On a trip to Mexico City, I discovered a fascinating mix of old European flavors and ancient world ruins that are as impressive as the Egyptian Pyramids.

Two parallel archeological sites, Tenochtitlan and Teotihuacan remind us of a remote period in Central Mexico’s history. Tenochtitlan is an old Aztec city that lies beneath Mexico City’s large center square, Zocalo.  Parts of Tenochtitlan have been excavated and open directly onto Zocalo square, across from the Royal Palace. Exposed aqueducts, rooms and artifacts are a part of the city center’s modern backdrop as if they were always meant to be there. In fact, the bricks from the dig were used to build the immense Metopolitan Cathedral that stands beside the archeological site. Mexico City is believed to be the sixth city built on this site.  Each population built a city on top of a more ancient city.

Mexico City is often overlooked as a travel destination but it has everything a major historical city like Paris or Madrid has to offer and more.  Its mix of culture, atmosphere, art, architecture, history and food make it an attractive, accessible tourist destination.

Forty kilometers northeast of Mexico City, Teotihuacan, another ancient city sits majestically 2200 meters above sea level. Two large pyramids, the Sun and the Moon Pyramid rise above the ground, separated by the kilometer-long Calle de las Muertes (Road of the Dead) where it is believed over 200,000 people once lived.  This incredible city was originally built by the Aztecs around 500AD. The civilizations of Tenochtitlan and Teotihuacan were never thought to be related until artifacts were discovered in 2006 suggesting that there was a sixth city under Tenochtitlan that is as ancient as Teotihucan.

Tenochtitlan rising toward the sun contrasts Teotihuacan amidst colonial architecture in the middle of Mexico City.  This scene is more complimentary than contrasting which embodies the spirit of Mexico City. My impression is that its citizens have a deep appreciation for the past and embrace the progress that they have been afforded as a result of democracy.

Is flying like swimming?

MOOREA, French Polynesia - There’s something about fresh sea air that feels so great!

The tiny airport is no bigger than my mechanic’s garage. One-by-one, the 19-seaters take off.  There is an approximate boarding time but it’s very much first come, first serve. First, pink cards numbered one to 19 are given out, then yellows and when those are out, blues. Passengers board by colour. Life is so simple. Why can’t the rest of the world operate this way?

Vicky was waiting for our taxi at the front entrance of the Westin Moorea, “We have saved the best bungalow for you. It’s the last one so there is nothing separating you and the horizon.”

She was right, the walkway on stilts was like someone rolled a carpet of boards into the sea while bungalows set up shop along the path over water, and ours just happen to be at the end.  The bungalow was stunning. It was entirely constructed with Teak wood and contained all the modern amenities of a six-star hotel. Except for a glass cut out in the middle of the bungalow floor, the wood continued to the patio doors onto a two story deck. I have arrived in heaven. Snorkel, mask and fins hung by the door. The ocean was calling. Normally, stairs off a deck would land you on the ground; these magical steps led us into water that you could snorkel in for hours.  And that we did.

Floating effortlessly in warm Pacific waters is how I imagine flying. Waist deep for about 500 metres, this whole new world of sea life was curiously comforting. We were exploring them, as much as they were exploring us.